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But his grandmother’s corset and her intricately seamed bra struck Gaultier as celebratory, rather than confining, as did any article of clothing that conveyed the idea of the body and of flesh, especially if it scrambled usual notions of gender—even though fashion was then in the thrall of a new group of Japanese designers, including Yohji Yamamoto and Rei Kawakubo, whose intellectual, architectural clothing was, if anything, anti-flesh and gender-neutral

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